Did some quick Googling, and found those codes refere to the VCT solenoid. For those that don't know, VCT means Variable Cam Timing, and is a HUGE part of why modern engines produce so much more horsepower compared to older engines, for the same or better mileage and emissions...
The truck ran, rough, but it ran, so I went ahead and ordered the parts I needed, figuring I had all the correct tools. I was WRONG!
For my issue, the positive is that the error / code threw in relation to bank 1, the passengers side of the truck, which is easier to get to. The bad side, and something I was unaware of when I started this project, is that there is a T-25 Torx fastener in a what the heck were they thinking location...
To get the job done, I needed the following tools...
#1. Rubber / acid resistant glove.
#2. 8mm box end wrench.
#3. Screwdriver set with several flat blade screwdrivers.
#4. Long nose Vise Grip pliers.
#5. T25 Torx screwdriver with a shaft about .25" longer than the one I used. More on that later...
#6. Chunk of scrap 3/4" plywood approximately 2" wide and 10" long.
#7. Soft face mallet.
For supplies, you will need the solenoid itself, as well as a new VCT Solenoid Grommet. After my experience with the aftermarket solenoid, I also HIGHLY recommend ether a very certain and steady hand, OR some brake cleaner and a drop of good some kind of oil resistant stickum to absolutely insure the screw stays attached to the screwdriver until you have it fully seated and retract the screwdriver, OR, and this is a last resort, a good quality long reach mechanics retrieval magnet.
I used the Dorman 917-200 Variable Valve Timing Solenoid
which is a direct replacement for the Ford OEM unit, incorporates some design fixes, but has the unfortunate design flaw of NOT being built to hold the retaining screw fully captive. This is only a problem during assembly and disassembly. I managed somewhat white knuckled, but I got it done...The procedure sounds very simple for this side on paper...
Step..
#1. Protect ground battery terminal with acid resistant glove and loosen positive with 8mm box wrench, remove positive battery cable.
#2. Disconnect wiring harness lead from VCT solenoid by depressing on the release tab, it is oriented if you are staring at the valve cover from over the passengers side fender, at the approximmately 7:00 position.
#3. Remove the VCT Solenoid grommet by gripping it with pliers and pulling it free.
#4. Loosen the T25 screw from the VCT solenoid that is at about 2:00 position, and draw the solenoid free from the cylinder head.
#5. Remove the captive screw from the freshly removed VCT Solenoid.
Assembly is allegedly the reverse of disassembly.
That is NOT how it worked...
I got as far as starting to remove the VCT Solenoid grommet...
100K + miles and the Texas heat made the original piece somewhat less than cooperative coming out.... I figured the method out and it is thus...
#1. Soak the area around the grommet with a good penetrating oil like Aerokroil or better.
#2. Remove the valve cover oil filler cap.
#3. Pry up on the exposed lip / tab along the top of the grommet with a slim enough to fit under, but sturdy enough to pry with flat blade screwdriver once you have worked it up far enough, grasp it firmly with the Vise Grips.
#4. Working your way around from the flared piece pry up using that flat blade screwdriver, counter clockwise, occasionally tugging on the locked on vise grips...
#5. After a considerable amount of time, effort, and possibly colorful language, you hit a "sweet spot' where the grommet just sort of lets go and comes off...
Removal of the Torx screw was far less than simple as well... For starters, my existing Torx screwdriver set went up to T20, where my Torx sockets started at T30, leaving the all too uncommon, and critical T25 gap that we need for our project...
I was pressed for time, so online ordering the right tool wasn't ever really an option. So I went to Advance Auto and picked up a T25 socket, thinking this should do the trick...
No joy. The T25 socket, being 3/8 drive is simply too big to fit in the cylinder head service port for the VCT solenoid...
I ended up running back to Advance needing to buy a T25 screwdriver. They did not have just a single solitary T25 driver, no... it had to be part of a set....
So in desparation I bought the set, and went back to work, only to find out the T25 driver is just a shave too short to get into the T25 bolt fully seated with the shaft of the screwdriver dead straight, the handle hits the top of the VCT solenoid somewhat. With this being such a miserable failure, I am seriously wishing I had a longer shaft T25 screwdriver, had I known that the driver I had was insufficient I would have ordered one like the SK tools Torx Screwdriver T-25 5.91In. Suregrip
which would have afforded me greater peace of mine in reassembly with that screw not fully captured...Installation was indeed reverse of removal, with the added fun of making DANG sure the screw did NOT get loose from the new solenoid as I reinstalled it.
Now I have it reinstalled, code cleared, and a smooth running V8 engine again. Hopefully this means I can get some gas mileage back. The dumb thing was getting down to single digits. Low gas prices are nice and all, but I HATE wasting gas....
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