02 August, 2014

Making the tee splice in the 7 pin wiring harness.

Hopefully you can make heads or tails of the video. Sorry. I obviously have not figured out the finery of Youtube video publishing... Hopefully I will get better, soon...

If you have been following this on the forum, you will notice the use of a yellow wire to tie into a red wire. That is intentional as it meets the requirements of my documented circuit design.

As a reminder the design of the circuit is as follows...

12V red power feeds the hot side of supply side of a SPST illuminated switch which is already installed in the dashbaord. Sorry if you wanted to see that done. I figured that was so basic as to not be worth my effort of documenting... I can do a fresh one if you'd like... Another 12V red power feed runs and terminates at terminal 87 on the relay. Thus feeding power to the relay.

The load side of the SPST switch is a green wire in the diagram, I will likely use white as it is what I have, and is routed to share a common lug with the yellow wire we just soldered on, and those will terminate on terminal 86 of the relay.

Terminal 85 will have a black wire run to a grounded ring terminal.

Terminal 30 will be a blue wire feeding back, and a Y splice shooting 2 wires off, 1 to each of the LED reverse lamps. (The 2 pin couplers actually). The couplers other side will be soldered to a short black lead attaching to ring terminals at the mount and grounding as close as possible to the mount.

As many of the connections as possible will be either weathertight, or soldered. I don't EVER want water problems with my circuit...



I MAY switch wire color from switch to relay to blue, and use white wire from relay to lamps. The lamps are factory wired white / black, and I don't have any green wire.  The relay is to be mounted underhood, so I am figuring I will need to carry 2 wires via a split loom to the front of the truck from the back, the yellow signal wire from the reverse light circuit, and the white power feed wire to the lamps. The relay can be grounded in the engine compartment, and the lamps themselves can be grounded at the frame mounting tab the lamps will mount to. This will minimize the amount of wire actually run throughout the vehicle, and theoretically at least, minimize the weight gain on the truck, by at least a few ounces, but every bit adds up!


A close up view, and sorry my camera work is a little jiggly here, but that red wire is heading straight to the center pin. According to every manual I have seen that is the reverse light wire, so that is the one we are going after!



So we fish back through the split loom a few inches back and fish that red wire out so we can trim the insulation off of it and make our solder joint. My camera work here is MUCH better as I wasn't trying to one hand it...



Strip back the insulation on the wire you are going to solder to the main, stripping enough insulation to make 5 full turns around the main wire.


If using stranded wire, twist the wires together before wrapping, at least this is the habit I got into. When you are done with your wraps it should look like the photo above...


In future videos the sound will be much improved. I didn't really need to be narrating it while I was shooting except my old M-audio duo USB isn't compatible with any OS newer than Windows 98... I could barely get it working in XP, but under Windows 8.1 forget it... I've got some new equipment coming from Behringer that should allow me to get back up to speed audio wise...

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