I haven't ever had good luck with Gorilla Glue. It sets up in the bottle after one, maybe two uses and is worthless. I have read on many different forums that a way to stop that is to store the bottle upside down. Well Gorilla Glue bottles aren't exactly made for that. So instead, I went ahead and whipped up a quick and simple bottle hanger that stores it out of the way, and upside down. Will keep it out of harms way while not using it, and with any luck, will keep it from going bad on me...
There's other ideas / designs for this that could have been used, I went with what made sense to me...
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I make no apologies for my general disdain for cordless power toolls. The battery type not the human powered ones that is.... But they serve a purpose. One of my main objections to cordless power tool technology is the overall lack of power compared to corded models,
But hey, they serve a purpose right?
And for me at least, the main purpose is to drill holes in things that are too far away from wall power to be reached effectively by a corded drill, such as drilling 3/4" holes for stump rot in a tree stump.
So to show you how this works, I gave my Drill Master cheapie a full charge, chucked up a 3/4" Irwin SpeedBor auger bit, and got after a hunk of 2x4 scrap.
For those of us using S&D PVC pipe and fittings for dust collection ductwork, or even for those using metal, you need to fasten pipe, to fittings in such a manner as to not cause excess interference with the airflow of the duct. A fellow member of Lumberjocks pointed out the screws sticking out intot he air stream in my last dust collection video which inspired this idea. So thank you to Dr. Jim Bertelson for the idea!
The whole point of my blogging, and vlogging is to share with you my successes, and mistakes in this DIY journey that is Daves Workshop. Well, I made a stupid mistake / assumption when I installed the dust collection ductwork. I don't recall exactly why it was only the down pipe that didn't have screw holding it together, but.... Well it is only the down pipe and it had just HVAC aluminum tape holding it together. After the years of use, it finally came flying apart after I got the Thein separator shelf project done, and I had to do something... Here is what I came up with, mistakes and all... I hope you enjoy!
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In this video I finish the build of, and install the shelf that I am using to support my Thien trash can cyclone separator for the shop vac. Mind you, since I got the dust collector the shop vac has seen very little use in the shop, but I find it super useful for doing things like drywall sanding etc.... where the fines would just kill a shop vac filter in short order...
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I mentioned on other platforms that I was going to build a shelf to hold my Thien trash can cyclone separator mostly to get it out from under the table saw. I need the space under the saw for storing things like totes of table saw and router accessories.
Well I shot some video (not my best work) of the build process... There are some good pointers on getting accurate cuts, how to line up for a cut etc... And an illustration of terrible Japanese pull saw work. Kind of a something for everyone into woodworking thing...
I hope you enjoy, and stay tuned, I am putting out the video for the install of this in a couple of days. I already have it mostly done. Just need to finish the ending credits and produce it... Oh, and the video for the install is MUCH better than for the build. Again, sorry about the video quality. I shot it all holding my smart phone by hand. Not my best idea ever...
How to perform a safe, and clean driveway oil change. For our demonstration we use our 2006 Chevrolet Malibu LS 3.5L V6 with over 125K on the odometer.
Tools, and equipment needed for the oil change are.
Jack stands. Make sure you use good quality, safe jack stands that are sufficiently rated for the vehicle in question. For our Malibu we are using a pair of Pittsburgh 3 ton jack stands from Harbor Freight Tools. A comparable set on Amazon would be the Torin 3 ton set. The lifted F150 4x4 uses the taller, heavier duty 6 ton models. And like the 3 tons, the 6 ton Torns are the Amazon equivalents.
While the factory jack will do in a pinch, a good quality floor jack makes the job safer and MUCH easier. We use a Pittsburgh Automotive 4 ton floor jack. The Amazon does have the Pittsburgh jack listed through third parties, but the mark up is too much in my opinion. The Pro Lift G737 3.5 ton model will do the job on both the car, and the truck without breaking a sweat.
You will need filter wrenches. I highly recommend band type wrenches. I have the Lisle type spring loaded ones, they slip, a LOT, and are very hard to use in tight spaces. I have had my band wrenches so long I don't recall when, or where I got them...
The drain pan I use is the Flo Tool 16 QT unit. I have yet to have a leak, and it is set up well to allow filters to drain out etc....The regular price on Amazon is easily half what you would pay at an auto parts store, or Walmart...
The price difference between the Harbor Freight models, and the models Amazon carries, makes the Harbor Freight flex head ratcheting combination wrench sets a VERY appealing alternative. I have had mine now for over 3 years, and while I won't pretend like they are equal to my Snap On flank drive combination wrenches, they do exactly what I need with zero problems at a price I can afford easily... I own them, I own high end wrenches, and I can honestly recommend them. I'd give you links to the specific sets, but sadly, Harbor Freight's IT department decided to bring down their site for maintenance work on Black Friday / Cyber Monday weekend. Keep your eyes peeled here, I will update the links once they get the site back up.
Like I mentioned in the video, I highly recommend using your vehicle MFG branded oil filters. Contrary to some nay sayers, I do use, and stand by permanent oiled air filters (K&N) which might be a mistake, but I have had zero related problems with any vehicle fitted with them and I do end up with LOTS of miles on my vehicles.
For oil, I have used all sorts of fancy pants race synthetics, and I have settled on Mobil 1 Full Synthetic. With the exception of the F150 5.4L 3V engine that has had the cam phaser failure, that I Have traced back solidly to failed Fram filters that were bypassing allowing crud to build up in the oil. I have had no oiling related issues, and to the contrary, I have had great success with engine longevity using this product.
Lastly, if you somehow manage to miss the pan and make a mess, you will need Oil Dri to clean up, as well as a broom, dawn dish washing detergent, and water to clean up the mess. It is best by a LONG shot to double, and triple check your oil catch pan placement under the vehicle and watch the flow of oil into it to keep it situated under the stream of oil at all times.
In this video I talk about the Green Leaf Wonder Winders I got from Amazon.com years ago and demonstrate their usage. They are a neat little gizmo that is super easy to use, keeps your extension cords in the garage or workshop where you need them. And makes it super easy to get them up and out of the way when you are done using them!
I am including the Amazon link for these things. Northern Tool has them on Amazon for less, but after you factor shipping in, they end up costing a bit more.
If you can get them at your local Northern tool that would probably be your best value.
The shop vac is sucking up precious floor space and is rarely used. I have long hoses, and a separate trash can / Thien style separator. My idea is to get it off of the floor, so a simple plywood and 2x4 shelf screwed straight into the studs of the garage wall.
The project isn't exactly super pretty, but it IS very functional, and allows me to more easily organize the shop.
I've got a bit planned for this weekend in and around the shop.
#1. The car needs an oil change. This should be pretty quick and easy to do early Saturday before it gets too miserably hot, even though the overnight low on Friday is supposed to be in the mid 80s... Ick.
#2. More shop cleanup. I have LOTS going on with that. Stuff is getting slid away from walls, junk is getting cleaned from between the walls and say totes etc... Totes are getting moved back after surplus junk is purged. Followed by more, and more cleaning.
#3. At some point this weekend, I am hoping to have the portable A/C on the bench ready to get torn down and bearings inspected. This should prove interesting. Hopefully it is something that can be fixed and not some cheap plastic POS part that failed...
At whatever point we can get to, I am going to try to take the old Saturn to my BILs shop and swap out the receiver drier (System was open due to a failed hose, have replaced everything but receiver drier at this point) and then reconnect lines vacuum system down, load the PAG oil and R1234 and give that AC a good going over.
That last part is probably a pipe dream right now...
Upon our arrival home on Wednesday, we discovered the house, cool, but not as cool as I would expect. Sure enough I check the air coming from the vents and it was warm...
I went out to the compressor / condenser outside and found the fan not running, and a loud buzzing coming from the compressor.
I had an idea what the problem was, so I tested. I took a thin stick and spun up the fan with it, sure enough once it was moving the fan stayed on, but the buzzing was still there, no compressor running...
That would indicate to me that the capacitor had failed.
Sadly the label listing the rating on the capacitor was missing, but there was a model number. I matched it up and found it to be a dual run 50 / 5 440v dual run capacitor.
Digging through the local vendors, Home Depot no joy, Lowes same, various small A/C or electrical repair parts places no joy. Only Grainger seemed to have one in stock.
So for one VERY sweaty night I managed to at least keep the master suite cool with a small window A/C unit and several fans. We were able to sleep, but that's about it...
On the issue of the fans, I used my shop fans, which with one of them, a 20" high volume "Air Circulator" there were absolutely zero problems, however, I do have a 20" Thermostatically controlled Lasko box fan, that came with those little plastic leveling feet that never worked worth a hoot, and had broken off years ago. I typically prop this fan up in the shop. But for use in the bedroom, I needed to whip up a pair of feet, so I quickly cut some feet from 3/4 plywood scrap that was literally laying on the floor (Still working on cleanup!), clamped them together in the vice, and relieved the corners with my belt sander to protect toes, counter sunk a couple of screw holes in each, pre drilled the pilot holes into the fan bottom, and installed the feet with sheet metal screws. So far, so great!
So taking a side trip during lunch instead of getting lunch, I swung by Grainger, and picked up the new capacitor. No biggie, except that it was literally 6 times the cost of the same exact item online.
Online at Global Industrial, the same exact capacitor sells for $5.99.
In store at Grainger, $38.99 (+ tax). So actually, over six times the cost.
But I desperately needed to get my AC fixed, so I ponied up the bucks, and snatched the unit from Grainger.
Upon arrival home, the bedroom was still cool from the window unit, so I went and begun work on the AC.
I first off threw any and all breakers that could possibly have anything to do with my AC. I pulled the cover and carefully metered the lines, completely dead.
Next I moved on to disharging the existing cap of any possible remaining charge. Nothing. I mean 100% dead.
Next I cut the zip tie that was bundling the wires up a bit too neatly, and then physically removed the band holding the existing cap, and carefully, one wire at a time, moved wire from old cap, to same position on new cap, slid the band on, and realized the new cap is about 1/16" smaller in diameter than the old one, not enough to be a real serious problem, but enough to make the band a little sloppy. Take up that slop by putting a couple of winds of electrical tape around the new cap where it is held by the band, and try again, good fit this time!
For my own sanity sake, I left out the zip ties, and with the new cap installed, I turned the thermostat back on to cool, set the temp good and low, and then threw the breakers back on, the fan AND compressor both whirred to life with their typical noise levels, so I am good.
Now for a little perspective, this house is slab on grade construction, and the heat index yesterday was about 106 deg F I believe. The slab itself was radiating heat well into the evening.
I got the new cap on, and A/C going just prior to 7:00 P.M., it took approximately 3.5 hours to cool the house from the miserable 84.5 deg F it was when I got home, down to a very livable 74 deg F.
I did leave the little window unit on and running at the far side of the house to help the main unit along, not sure how much help it really was. Just a little 8K BTU window job that I had picked up years ago on clearance at Walmart to toss into a tent door when camping in the summer in Texas (It's hokey I know, but it works!)
I got the extension cords cleared out, and fans at least pulled out of the way. The fans and window unit get pulled out of the way today. I have a lot more to do in my shop, particularly in relation to cleaning it up, and taking care of my back... And cooling the place down.
I am giving serious consideration to building a proper manifold box for the window unit A/C, and adapting it to my existing intake / exhaust ducts however I doubt that the unit is large enough to properly cool my 18x20 shop.