04 May, 2016
However her laptop is her laptop and I do NOT want to have to keep borrowing it to do my work.
The problem isn't just a simple application hang that I can use task manager to exit the application and restart, oh no.... it hard freezes the system, no input whatsoever is taken, and even the displayed time on the clock stops incrementing... It hard hangs the system...
I am working with CyberLink to resolve this issue. My laptop is fully patched up to date, the firmware is up to date, and I have run full diagnostics from Lenovo on my laptop and it all shows good other than I am out of warranty. No surprise there, the warranty on these things is shockingly short...
I have made sure I have the latest drivers, and followed all of CyberLink's published work arounds to no avail. In my reading it might be a coding issue. It looks like CyberLink has a problem with ATI / AMD Radeon video which my laptop has.
I am very hopeful that CyberLink can offer a solution to this problem in short order. For now, I will have to swipe my wifes laptop to get my work done, and that's not fair to either of us. The tools I need are on my laptop, and she needs to use the tools on her laptop to do her work as well...
03 May, 2016
I ran into some errors running the video editing software and found firmware issues related to the SSD. I ran full diagnostics on the laptop, updated all the firmware and tested again...
Looking good so far... maybe tonight I can post the video for you folks!
02 May, 2016
Anyway, I have the video shot but it is all voiceless, I will need to do some voiceover and video editing before I can give you a quick howto on this thing.... But the process is pretty simple. Mind you, it only applies to the Lenovo Flex 2 15D It might be relevant to other models, but I know it works with this...
My next repair on this is going to be the digitizer screen and it should be good to go!
01 May, 2016
In order to fix this so I can keep up with my video work, and let my lovely bride have her laptop, I found, and ordered a replacement HDD, I really wanted a SSD though to improve performance and increase reliability. I found a screaming deal on a 1TB Mushkin on Newegg.com and so ordered it up...
Right now as I type, I am using Partition Magic to migrate the OS to the new SSD, we will see if the UEFI will actually boot to it.
So as soon as I am done with the data copy, I am going to wing the camera back up in here and give you guys and gals a birds eye view of me replacing the HDD with the new SSD and configuring the boot order, and booting for the first time from the new hard drive.
Wish me luck!
28 April, 2016
I'd give you a long winded written description of the problem and the fix, but here's the video instead. If you would like text I have it closed captioned as well.
If you like my videos, i really would appreciate you clicking the like button and subscribing to my channel. It helps me keep going with this whole effort!
23 April, 2016
While not holding pressure 100% for extended periods, it IS holding good pressure and I am stumped as to where the leaks could be, but I drop about 10PSI overnight.
No bubbles when soapy water tested though... As of now, I kind of have to say it's good enough, but I will keep digging as time makes itself available.
Sorry it took me so long to get this video out. It would appear my laptop hard drive has seen better days. The laptop isn't that old, but it met the floor kind of hard in early March, and since then it has been acting up... With the troubleshooting I have undertaken, it looks like I need to replace the hard disk, which gives me a good opportunity to upgrade to a solid state drive, and I need to replace the touch digitizer which I will have done.... Not going to mess with that part!
20 April, 2016
So the video was uploaded to my laptop, and I went ahead and fired up my PowerDirector to get busy with video editing. My system repeatedly locks up. It only does so when running PowerDirector, so I contact CyberLink Software for support,
Their reply was simple, and believable, my older version of PowerDirector is incompatible with Windows 10, please upgrade to the latest version which we support on Windows 10.
Okay done. Guess what?
At least in my installation, CyberLink PowerDirector 14 does NOT work all that well on Windows 10, it freezes my laptop doing all sorts of normal operations.But most noticeably when performing a split operation, it fairly reliably will freeze next time I try to preview a clip.
Makes video editing a VERY difficult thing to do...
I have used PowerDirector for years since I got the bundled version with my JVC Everio digital camcorder literally a decade ago. And I know new operating systems give them fits, but they have had time to develop for and work the kinks out of their product for Windows 10.
Hopefully they can figure it out, or I fear I am going to have to fork over for Adobe Premiere CS and I don't really want to do that. I actually LIKE PowerDirector and would prefer I stayed with the app I know. I have used Premiere in the past with no problems, it's just more than I need, and I hate the price tag...
18 April, 2016
This rain event has tested the mettle of my weatherstripping on the garage doors, and not all the news is good. I am getting water intrusion in under the door. Not much, but enough to bother me... Looks like I need to re seal the door bottoms!
I was able to verify my fix for the compressor seems to be holding. The compressor has been turned off a couple of days, and the tank is still holding at 140psi. Not sure why the initial 10PSI drop, but not enough to care about... Time to dump the tank, do some more cleanup, and try to mop up the water by the door!
I hope all of you have a safe and happy day, if you have friends or loved ones in Coastal Texas, this might be a good time to check in on them and make sure they are okay, a lot of my neighbors aren't...
14 April, 2016
Compressor pressure gauge replaced, dump line done! A/C Condenser Fan motor issue fixed, and replacing lost tools.
The bleed down is not enough to cause a problem when using the compressor, but it sure is a bad enough leak to bother me. I suspect it is right at that gauge too. It is not 100% tight because I needed to read the face. Not sure how to fix this but I will figure it out.
I did install the ball valve on the quick connect output side and tested that for leaks at least and it is 100% leak free.Very happy with that!
And of course the tank drain and ball valve for that drain are installed and now accessible without me getting on my hands and knees and reaching under the compressor in a small space...
You might notice the output is at a slight angle, which is intentional. I did not want to overstress the threads, and this side of the equation, all the joints have been leak tested under pressure and they are leak free.
I MAY change one of the 5" nipples I used (a pair of them with a copuler) with a 3" to put the ball valve on the other side of that axle tube and get it out of harms way, but I don't play on moving my compressor often.
Now no photos, but I did put ends on the connecting hose, and hooked it up. The new hose is considerably longer than the old, and I simply coiled up the excess and zip tied it up so it won't be in the way....
Last night, a horrible squealing noise coming from the back yard woke me up. Go out and look, and it was WAY obvious the bearing on the AC Condenser fan is squealing and chirping,
This morning, I powered off the A/C (The breaker box is right next to the condenser), and pulled the fan out of it's 4 screws and looked. I wish I had thought to take pics...
Long story short, the shaft was caked with mud from I am assuming the yard work, and there was dirt, and rust around the bearing... A quick brush down with an old toothbrush and a liberal application of WD-40 which only stopped when the chunks of dirt stopped coming out of the bearing,were done, and then the assembly put back together, and powered back on. We are back to beautiful, noise free motor operation (the fan blades / air flow makes noise...).
All in all, today is turning out to be a productive day in the shop and around the house. Good thing for me I guess that I hit the companies maximum leave time and HAD to take time off!
I believe I mentioned in a former post, I managed to lose my 10mm deep well 1/4" drive socket, and my 5/32" 1/4" deep well socket. The replacements were Husky branded from Home Depot, and are 6pt pieces. Oddly enough, the metric deep socket set I have is Husky and while the replacement is close, it is not 100% exact. Will show that later. Also the 5/32 that is missing and now replaced with Husky is in a Craftsman set from the early 90s. The Husky socket is about 2mm longer than the Craftsman that pushes the top of the case out ever so slightly. Not bad enough to annoy me, but enough to get my attention.
While I was adding and fixing tools, I also grabbed a Pittsburgh 6" digital caliper, and a 5pc swivel head ratcheting combination wrenches to match my metrics. Yes they are Pittsburgh cheapies but they have proved their value to me for the last 2 years so the SAE were a welcome addition! I still have my Mibro 6" digital caliper, but the battery is dead and I wasn't sure what battery they used, and I needed to get another. I figured it out, they are 357 button cells that I can get at Walgreens of all places. Going to do that this afternoon!
Before too long the shop will be back in the shape it is supposed to be in.and I can continue with my sign building...
Which of course brings me to the issue I had with my Rockler Interlock Signmaker's Templates - State Park Font Kit. The original bushing was defective (chunks missing from the threads) and it would NOT lock down, which kicked the router up and rammed the bit through the W template.
I want to give kudos to Rockler customer service. Over the years I have had to use them on a couple of occasions, and they are always completely professional and make a point to make sure I am a happy customer. Since Rockler sells a LOT of the templates and specialty pieces I use, they are sure to get more and more of my business as the years go on!
12 April, 2016
So I managed to install a remote tank dump valve, and a matching 1/4" NPT ball valve on the compressor output.
The remote dump was pretty simple, but with one minor misjudgement on my part as far as parts went...
Unlike my Central Pnuematic 12 gallon 2HP horizontal air compressor, the 29 gallon compressor tank doesn't have a 1/4" threaded hole, but instead it's threaded 3/8"! No big deal. Plenty of spare parts in my toolbox to solve the problem. But let's take a check of what I had to get for the job...
For starters, after removing the original valve, I found the 3/8" thread instead of 1/4", So I fished a 3/8" M x 1/4" F bushing from my toolbox. Not the actual one photographed, but one I had previously pulled from use.
My parts pile came from a combination of Home Depot, and Harbor Freight Tools. I was going to get most of it from Lowes, but the Lowes near me doesn't carry the 1/4" brass they used to, and I found 1/4" iron at Home Depot...
So the haul was...
From Harbor Freight.
- 3/8" x 5-8' Rubber Air Hose (Remnant). (I think mine is 8'
- 2 @ 1/4" full port Ball Valves (I had already unpackaged one prior to shooting the pic)
From Home Depot.
- 1/4" galvanized iron street elbow.
- 1/4" galvanized iron coupler FxF
- 2 @ 1/4" x5" galvanized iron nipples.
- 1 tube Rectorseal yellow pipe dope. My old jar of Ace Hardware PTFE pipe sealant got broken and dried out / thrown out.
So all was going I took the F quick connect off of the compressor, pipe doped my male threads and male threads on the ball valve, and then installed the ball valve inline between the compressor and the F quick connect.
Next, I go and apply the pipe dope to the male threads, and assemble the nipples to the coupler,and ball valve.
I then go to CARFULLY lean back the compressor to remove the tank drain.
That's when things got away from me.
Simply put, the compressor tipped over and went to the concrete floor.
Good thing it was the handle side of the compressor.
Bad thing the handle doesn't curve back any.
Apparently the pressure gauge DOES protrude beyond the handle on the back of the compressor.
I am not sure about you guys, but just looking at that pic, makes me cringe.
Good thing, Harbor Freight has them, cheap. Bad thing, I have to go get one.
Sadly they don't have an exact replacement in inventory, but rather one with a 1/4" NPT fitting, good thing I have bushings!
I know there are a couple of guys that are crying about the 200PSI filled gauge being labelled in metric on the outer ring, and SAE in the inner. I can handle Metric readings and convert on the fly in my head so I am not terribly worried about it.
So soonest possible, I go to HF, and grab one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/200-psi-14-in-npt-filled-gauge-68251.html
Lesson to b learned? Even if it is short, get help tiilting back / over an air compressor! Now I can't QC my job until I have that dumb thing replaced.
08 April, 2016
06 April, 2016
http://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-full-port-ball-valve-68254.html (I already have one).
Will need one 1/4” NPT male x female brass elbow.
Need 10” brass 1/4” NPT nipple. Can’t find a link, but I know my local Lowes has them. That’s where I got mine.
3/8×8 – 15ft air hose remnant. (Useful for whip hoses).
02 April, 2016
29 March, 2016
Over the last several months, I have on the 2001 Saturn.
#1. Repaired a leaking intake manifold with the coolant bypass kit from www. carsaturn.com. The kit was a bit intimidating to install, but the video instructions provided by the developers of this thing. Unlike the engineers at General Motors, the guys at carsaturn.com actually did a good job on making a consumer friendly product.
#2. Replaced a leaky and growling power steering pump. Several years ago, on Thanksgiving Eve, the plastic pulley on this pump exploded. It finally gave up.
#3. Replaced the belt, belt tensioner, and idler pulley, since I was in there, I wanted to make it all good...
#4. Replaced the water pump, upper, lower radiator hoses, and heater hoses.
#5. Replaced the foreward and passenger side motor mounts.
#6. Sourced up, and replaced the original broken down seats with seats from a low mileage 2001 SL1 with a matching interior. Some of the nicer features of the SL2 seats like the separate headrests and adjustable lumbar support are missing, but these are actually more comfortable.
#7. started stripping the bubbling paint and removing the failed bondo from the hood (2 owners back had the bondo done).
At the same tine, I have been working on our new to us 2006 Chevy Malibu LT 3.5L V6. On that I have...
#1. Oil Change.
#2. Replaced belt, upper and lower hoses, heater hoses, thermostat.
#3. New pads on rear, checked pads on front.
#4. Transmission service. Video coming on that soon. Again, GM engineeers must be insane.
#5. Replace 4 broken wheel studs. For what it's worth, again, GM Engineers must be insane. There is NO good reason to make it that hard to get wheel studs out / in while the hub is on the vehicle.
And on the 2004 F150 5.4L 3V I am continuing to try to diagnose the P0012 code. I am at the point of knowing for sure the issue is an oiling / cam phaser problem. I am in the phase of putting money aside to do a full timing set rebuild, while I am in there I am planning on replacing water pump, idler, tensioner pullies, possibly with underdrive units, throwing in a high volume oil pump, cleaning out all the crud from the top end of the engine, dropping the pan and cleaning the lower end.
Once the go through on the engine is done, I need to go through the IWE system The truck drives like the 4wd system.
Tons of work around the house as well. Too much to list...But I have been busy...